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ADDITIONAL INFO

Why Should I Aerate?

  First of all, aeration is a critical part of any lawn care program to successfully maintain a healthy grass root and encourage new shoot growth. Through this process, soil compaction is relieved and oxygen can then travel to the root zone. 

  Secondly, the average homeowner uses 50% of their water on lawns. Aeration reduces water run-off by 20 to 40%, thus providing savings to the homeowner. 

  Thirdly, aeration promote deep drought resistant roots in your lawn. Deeper roots are more tolerant to heat as well as being more tolerant to disease.

  All this adds up to a healthier lawn with less maintenance and lower costs. Green Horizons strongly recommends aeration at least once during the year. Many of our customers have found aerating 2 and 3 times during the summer very beneficial - especially if they are trying to improve an unhealthy lawn. Aeration can be done at any time from April to November, as long as the lawn has been adequately watered. Let us know if you would like to be on our schedule for aeration this year.

Tree and Shrub Care

  Your trees and shrub represent a growing investment

that's worth protecting. There are many insects and

diseases that can attack and infest your landscape. Our

trained and licensed staff can identify and control these problems before severe damage or plant loss occurs. Give

us a call if you have any tree or shrub concerns. We'll be

happy to help you protect your investment!

Got Grubs?

1. Brown patchy spots in your lawn.

2. Grass that easily pulls up from the ground (the grubs have eaten off the roots.)

3. Holes in your yard (skunks and birds digging into your lawn to eat the grubs).

If you see the signs, let us know. We'll be happy to set up a program to get these bugs under control!

Watering Trees in a Dry Climate

  According to an article from Colorado State University,

trees must be given top watering priority. 

  A general rule of thumb is to use approximately 10 gallons 

to water per inch of trunk diameter for each watering.

(Measure trunk diameter at knee height.) General formula:

Tree Diameter x 5 minutes = Total Watering Time.

(Example: When you hand water using a hose at medium pressure, it will take approximately 5 minutes to produce

10 gallons of water. If you have a 4" diameter tree, it should receive 40 gallons of water. Multiply the diameter (4) by 5 minutes to equal total watering time of 20 minutes.)

  It is recommended to deep water to a depth of 12 inches

below the soil surface 3 times per month if the climate is

dry. Watering should be distributed evenly under the drip 

line of the tree. Two watering methods that can be

used for all size trees are:

  1) Hose attachment method - Use a soft spray attachment

at medium pressure.

  2) Deep root feeder method. Work the needle into the soil

at an angle to a depth of 8 inches. Use low to moderate

water pressure. Water the area under the branches in four

to twelve sites. Scatter the sites around the area bordered

by the drip line. For new trees and those planted within five years, place the needle at least three feet from the trunk. 

What are the best trees to plant in eastern Colorado?

  This is a question Green Horizons gets asked frequently, and our years of tree care experience allows us to offer the following suggestions!

  Our Favorites:

  Linden: An excellent shade tree that does well with normal lawn watering. It's especially hardy, is visited by few if any insects and requires little pruning to maintain its natural, pyramidal shape.

  Honey-Locust- A very hardy tree that adapts itself to many types of soils. Although thorns grow on its branches, its compound leaves cast a light shadow making it a superior lawn tree. 

  Hackberry - The hackberry is a tough tree which has the ability to stand up to temperature extremes and a variety of soils. This species usually grows to 60 feet high, but its roots generally grow deep enough to not interfere with mowing or break up nearby sidewalks.

  Upright Juniper - Evergreens such as junipers provide year-round interest, color and texture to any landscape, and they tend to do well in full sun with normal lawn watering. We especially like the upright juniper because of its dense upright pyramidal form which requires little or no pruning to maintain its shape. 

  Stay Away From These Varieties:

  Ash - This species is often damaged by fall and spring snowstorms, and it tends to be a home to many insects including bores which can eventually kill the tree if not treated annually. 

  Poplar - This tree grows fast, but it is usually short lived as it is especially prone to disease.

  Other Pointers

  No matter what variety of tree you decide to plant, remember to choose your planting site carefully. No single species of trees is suited to all conditions. Consider the mature size of the tree being planted and allow sufficient room for both height and crown diameter growth. Moisture, shade, and soil requirements of the tree must be the same that exists at the planting site.

  Also remember, Green Horizons is here to help you with your existing trees! If you are noticing any browning or unusual leaf or needle loss, give us a call. We will be happy to make a recommendation and provide treatment if necessary.

​

I'm Noticing Brown

Patches in My Lawn.

What's Wrong?

  One reason for a brown lawn is that the soil is dry.  A lawn requires  1 1/2" of water per week, and even if you are

putting on enough, the clay soils we have allow the water

to evaporate before it reaches the grass root zone. Aeration

is helpful for this. 

  Another reason for brown patches is over-watering. A

fungus can develop when a lawn doesn't ever have a

chance to dry out. Often a fungus will start in shaded areas where moisture and humidity tend to keep an area moist.

It can then spread to consume an entire lawn. Putting a

fungicide on before the situation gets too far along is

necessary.

  Grubs also create brown patches in lawns. These insects

eat away at the roots, thus killing the grass on top. You will

be able to pick up patches of dead grass and notice the

white worms underneath if you have them. The best bet for

grub control is to put on a chemical that destroys the eggs

of this insect in late May or early June. If you are not

scheduled for this application and would like to be, let us

know.

  Determining the reason for the brown patched in your

lawn can be difficult. Our trained technicians are available

to assist you if you have any questions. 

Weeds Sending You Over the Edge?

  Have you ever noticed that weeds are often worse along the edges of streets, sidewalks and driveways? It all comes down to the fact that weeds can thrive in conditions that are bad for healthy lawn growth. For example:

  Foot traffic is usually heaviest along driveway and curb areas. This causes soil to become compacted, which is great for weed growth but not for lawns.

  Watering often misses the very edges of your lawn. These areas actually need more water than the rest of your lawn, not less.

  Lawn edges are often cut too short with string trimmers and mowers, making these spots not only the hardest, hottest, and driest, but also the thinnest parts of your lawn. 

  So what's the solution? The best way to keep the edges of your lawn weed-free is to carefully mow and trim these areas, and aerate if your lawn is becoming compacted. Deep, regular watering along the edge's of your lawn will also encourage healthy grass growth. 

Oystershale Scale

  Oystershale scale is found on lilacs, cottonwoods, poplars,

elms and aspens. Oystershale scale is a sucking insect that forms a hard scale over the top of it so that insecticides can

not penetrate to it. This insect can live on a tree for many

years and it only moves about 1 to 2 centimeters per year. During this moving, which lasts 1 to 2 weeks, several

insecticides accommodate the problem. However, during

the other 50 weeks of a year while this hard shell is

protecting the insect, only a systemic insecticide or a tree

oil will produce results. Oystershale scale is grayish brown

in color and is the size of a large pinhead. Untreated, this

insect will weaken the tree until death results. If you think

your trees may have oystershale scale, or if your trees

show any sign of weakening, give us a call. We specialize in diagnosing and treating tree

problems!

When you mow too short...

- A grass plant's ability to grow is reduced.

- More sunlight reaches the soil surface, increasing the loss of soil moisture and increasing weed seed germination.

- The soil dries out quickly.

- The crown of the plant may dehydrate, causing it to brown and die.

- Too many clippings are left behind, making lawns more prone to  thatch and disease.

For most types of grass, the best mowed height is 2 inches. The best time to mow is when the grass is at 3 inches!

Tree Borers

  Some of the most serious tree pests we encounter are tree borers. Because of the damage to the sapwood (xylem),

borers are usually fatal to the tree. However, if infestations

are found early enough, and the pest is not a deep-boring species, the tree can sometimes be saved.

  Adult borers lay eggs on or in the bark of the tree; the eggs hatch into larvae which chew their way into the wood under

the bark or inside the trunk; there they continue to feed for

a period that can range from a few months to several years. When the larvae mature, the adult insects chew their way

out of the tree and begin the cycle again. It is the tunneling activity inside the wood that cause the damage. Trees that

are weakened by stress, extensive defoliation, drought, or

other causes, may be more susceptible to borer attack.

Aspen, cottonwood, willow, birch, ash, lilac, juniper, pine,

spruce, and fir are trees that are commonly attacked by

borers.

  To check trees for infestations or borers, look for small

holes, usually 1/4 inch or less in diameter, that have

sawdust falling from them or that are oozing sap. If you

think your trees may have signs or borers, give us a call.

Green Horizons has found injecting insecticides directly into

the tree to be the most beneficial method of controlling the borers. Early detection is very important! 

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